Now we're going to reassemble everything, in reverse with the new fork seal in place. Slide on the dust cap, the NEW fork seal, the metal bushing and then the two split rings. Insert the damper piston and use a wooden dowel to push it to the bottom. You'll need to get the piston to protrude through the bottom of the slider, so stick your screwdriver in and wiggle it around until the end of the piston comes out. Take the small bushing and drop it into the lower fork tube. Shake it around until is sits nicely at the bottom of the tube, then insert the bolt. Put the Hex Key into the head of the bolt, slide the lower fork tube on to the slider and then grab the wooden dowel. While holding the dowel, turn the Hex Key to thread the bolt into the end of the piston. You might need to put pressure on the wooden dowel, to hold the piston in place, so you can tighten the bolt. Now you can seat the fork seal.

There is a proper tool for seating the fork seal, but I didn't have one. So I went to my local Home Depot (tm) to get a piece of PVC pipe. I was sure to bring one of my old seals. The pipe I chose was the same size as my fork seal. Place the pipe down over the slider and tube assembly and smack the back end of the pipe firmly to seat the fork seal. When this is done properly, the C-clip will seat very easily.

Just a note: I had my fork tubes polished. Looks nice doesn't it?

All parts in a row.	Slide the bushing into the fork tube and then stick the bolt through.	A wooden dowel helps keep the piston in place when fastening the bottom bolt.
.	Gently install the Cir-Clips with the same blunt instrument and hammer.

Ready to put in the oil? Be sure the drain screws are replaced at the bottom of each fork. The manual recommends using 10W oil. I had a mechanic recommend 15W oil, but only if you want more dampening. The 15W oil will allow the shock absorbing piston to depress as fast as if you were using the lighter 10W oil, however, the return stroke will be slower. This could serve to reduce the amount of shutter your front end produces on some road conditions. How much oil do you put in? Here's a quick reference chart to tell you.

Now you can put the springs, spacers and 17mm Butt Screws back in. It's a bit of a pain to get the threads aligned properly, especially while fighting with the pressure from the spring. Just be sure to take your time and get the job done properly. Now your front wheel can go back on. Two things, Be sure the speedo device is mounted correctly and that the bushing on the other side of the wheel is in place. Move the wheel into place and slide the axle through. You'll want to be sure this is wrenched in good and tight. My manual recommends 75 foot pounds. Then fasten the pinch bolt. This thing attaches to where you just slid in the axle.

Slide the brake calipers back on and bolt them into place. Providing you didn't touch the front brake lever, they should go on easily. If not, you're going to have to use a C-Clamp to press the pistons in, to make the calipers slide on to the rotors. Now reattach the reflectors and the brake line holders. Finally bolt your fender back on. Don't forget the thick washers! They go between the bottom of the fender mount and the lower fork tube.

Finally, it will take some time for your new seals to adjust to the slider tubes. For the first month or so, you're going to get oil leakage, dirt on the tubes and it's going to make you wonder if you did a good job. Don't worry. as the new seals adjust to their new home, they will tighten up and the amount of oil leakage will decrease until they're working properly and there's no more leakage. This will take a month or so. Please be sure to keep your slider tubes clean, so the oil doesn't drip on your brake pads. That would be bad!! You don't need to clean them everyday though, dirt or lack thereof is a good indication of the progress your seals are making.